We have just returned from a magical 4 days in Cornwall, where we stayed at the Hotel Tresanton in St Mawes, overlooking the sea on the south side of the Roseland Peninsula. This is a lovely hotel designed by the legendary Olga Polizzi. It has about 30 rooms, all of which look out towards the peaceful harbour. I can’t think of a better sound than the gentle lapping of the sea outside, and the soft tinkle and chatter of people enjoying themselves on the terrace below. Is there a nicer place in the world to be lulled into an afternoon snooze and then to wake, rested, revitalised and ready for a great meal in their restaurant.
The hotel has a terrace that overlooks the bay, and you can have breakfast, lunch and an all day menu there, including an evening meal in warmer weather.
The restaurant is run by head chef Paul Wadham and he serves locally sourced food with an emphasis on fish. An interesting fact about Paul is that his brother is Simon Wadham who is also a chef (at Rivington Grill in Shoreditch – another one of our favourites). Paul served his time at the old Atlantic Bar and Grill run by Oliver Peyton, before getting the call to Cornwall and the Tresanton almost 12 years ago. His food is elegant and uses simple ingredients. The linguine with squid and chilli was sublime and the flavours of garlic, chilli and parsley were in perfect harmony. There are nice little touches with the main meal, such as peppery olive oil with the bread, instead of butter, and the coffee comes with two little dark chocolate squares. With the candlelit room supplying a magical atmosphere, a meal here makes for a tasty and memorable night.
THINGS TO DO AND OTHER PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK.
The first day we went on a stunning walk to Nare Head & Portloe from Veryan. This is only about 7 miles, but it is deceptively hard due to the steep hills along the coastal path.
A great way to start the walk is at the The Nare Hotel, which prides itself as Cornwall’s only 4 star hotel and offers a premium service. If the coffee and biscuit we had on the beautiful terrace is anything to go by, then it deserves its rating and would be a nice alternative base to the Tresanton. The walk starts off by following the coastal path and about two thirds through The Lugger Hotel in Portloe is a great place to stop for lunch.
We sat on the terrace and, as you can see from the picture above, the view was spectacular. This whitewashed 17th Century inn has a dark history. In 1890, it’s landlord, Black Dunstan, was sent to the gallows after his second career in smuggling French brandy was uncovered. These days, the 22 bedrooms have a New England vibe, with cream sofas, white furniture and of course that amazing view of the sea. If the weather is inclement you can sit inside and eat in the oldest part of the hotel, under 17th century wooden beams.
Apparently the hotel has been the home to several celebrities from Morrissey, who celebrated his birthday here a few years ago, to David Cameron,who, rumour has it, went for a post lunch swim in the bay pictured above.
The lunch was maybe a bit more fancy than what we wanted (we had just walked almost 5 miles) but nonetheless it was delicious. I had a fresh crab salad and it was great.
Refreshed from lunch we headed inland towards Veryan, where the reward for completing the walk was a great cup of tea in the grounds Elerkey Gallery and Mill
It is then a short walk back to the start and the Nare Hotel.
DAY OUT IN FOWEY – just along the coast from St. Mawes (about an hour’s drive away). This is such a beautiful Cornish seaside town. It has the ubiquitous coloured houses, smart shops and even nicer cafes, delis and food places to try. What is not to like about this place? Spoilt for choice over places to eat, we decided on the Fat Cap and Brisket at the Toll Bar for lunch. 
I had two veggie starters – a ricotta and spinach spring roll and then tomatoes and basil on toast. Both would have sufficed by themselves as a decent, light lunch. The flavours were really fresh, the setting was charming and the staff friendly. Although we sat at the front, the back tables are the best, with another beautiful harbour view.
Keen readers may also wish to know that Fowey was the home to the great local novelist Daphne du Maurier, whose prodigious output included ‘Rebecca’, made world famous by Hitchcock’s film version. A nearby bookshop stocks all her work if you want to read something set locally during your stay. I can see the draw of this place. It is easy to get lost in the verdant woodlands behind the cove and spend hours wandering around the town.
We look forward to returning soon!
The Urban Garden Cook 